Grey Skies and Cloudy Minds

I couldn't decide whether to post this. Quarantine has had its ups and downs, but yesterday was a deffo down. The first few days had started off well. Lie-ins, baking and Netflix. It was like a perpetual weekend. The sudden lack of obligations, of responsibility, meant I stayed up all night, watching crap on YouTube, snacking, and making the most of not having to wake up early to catch up with friends and family back home.

The days passed in some kind of lazy blur, and then it was Wednesday. Can you still celebrate a humpday when every day is Sunday? My brother and his gf had left a week earlier on one of the last few KLM flights, and I woke up groggy after another night staring at a screen. I rolled over to check the time on my phone, and noted an influx of messages on the various animal rescue Wechat groups. Nothing new there, people were often exchanging tips and posters of various dogs and cats looking for furever homes (see what I did there?). But then I opened one of the shared links and it hit me. I’d heard the rumours of people throwing pets out on the streets, some possibly left with a tiny bowl of food and a sign, and other sick individuals throwing them out of windows out of fear they could transmit the virus. But here it was in full-picture glory, dogs and cats laid on the pavement, blood trickling from their cracked heads. And then the next article...

'Villages Order Culling Of Domestic Pets to Control Virus'.

I felt sick, like the 11 floors beneath me had disintegrated and I was falling fast.

They can’t take my dogs.

Back on Wechat, several frantic pet owners were debating on what that meant for us in Beijing. And suddenly I wanted to go straight home. When Nick and Beth first travelled back, I was happy to stay in the 'Jing, enjoying a bit of time to myself, away from the rat race. But losing my dogs has always been a constant fear for me - from the one dog policy, to the no-dogs-over-35cm rule, to street 'clean ups' before any major political event. I was beside myself. Should I just leave China and take Mao and Alfie with me? Would we even be allowed to leave? What about Bao (the latest foster) and Wilbur (the rescue hamster)? And what would I do when I had to travel back to China?

Everyone was checking in regarding the virus - my school, the community and the letting agent requesting endless forms and temperature checks. But the virus was the least of my worries. The constant reports that the disease had come from an 'animal source' and a misconstrued quote by an infectious disease 'expert' had threatened my furry family. "Pets should be quarantined if they have been in contact with suspected patients infected with the novel coronavirus." I'll quarantine you, Dr Li Lanjuan.

I wanted to feel in control, so I started making plans: I checked documentation, rang the vets and insurance company, checked airline policy and prayed and prayed. The internet could not have chosen a worse day to load every webpage super slowly. Turns out Mao and Alfie's 2016 documentation had expired, and the few airlines that were still flying to and from Beijing didn't take pets. I felt trapped, now not only the threat of the virus was creeping in, but animal control too.

I felt helpless, defeated, and cried way more than I should have done. I rang friends and family back home who tried to put my mind at ease, and by the afternoon the World Health Organisation and the Chinese state network CGTN had started to try and quash the rumours. It wouldn't bring those poor fur babies back, but hopefully it would stop any more suffering a similar fate.

I hugged my furry babies tightly, shared WHO posts on my WeChat, and went to bed. The fact that people out there are willing to kill so quickly scared me more than the virus.

I thought Garfield said Mondays were supposed to suck?

As of Feb 5th:
1,388 unwatched YouTube videos on my 'to watch later' playlist.
500 unread emails.
7 unread paper books (+ 1 kindle).
4 avocados.
2 and a half cartons of soy milk.
3 dogs and a hamster.
1 tin of baked beans.
No more chocolates.
No more cake.

As Long As You Have Onions

Today I slept, and baked, and contemplated how on Earth I'm going to teach online. I'm thankful for all the people that have reached out and asked me how I'm doing. Many people have asked when I'm coming home, but unfortunately it's not as easy as just hopping on a plane for an unknown period of time. I've spent half of my adult life in China. My whole life* is currently here.


*read: the doggos are currently here.

Whilst many are quick to dismiss China's response to the outbreak, and that's without mentioning the *ahem* cover-up, I have been impressed with China's ability to come together, particularly in supporting the medical staff in Wuhan. Thankfully with only a couple of hundred cases in Beijing, it seems like we're pretty well prepared for a larger outbreak and they seem to be making all the right moves to reduce the spread of the virus.

One of the strange side effects of the quarantine however, and an interesting insight in to communist Chinese culture, is the constant call for people to police each other, serving as reminders to practice good hygiene practices (not a bad thing imho), and encouraging one another not to go out. I have received numerous messages from well-wishing we-chat acquaintances reminding me to regularly wash my hands, wear a mask and use hand sanitiser. Thankfully this was already pretty standard practice since moving to China. Anyone who has ever used a hutong bathroom will tell you hand santiser and a face mask are a must.

I have also received some rather poetic reminders of the need to stay in.

"As long as there's a grain of rice in your apartment - don't go to a crowded place.
As long as you have onions - do not rush to the market.
As long as you have a piece of meat - do not go in the supermarket.
As long as there's breath in your body, stay in your home and defend your position!"

"What is best in this life?
Stability of the Motherland is the best.
Healthy and happy people, settled at home, are the best.
Safe loved ones are the best.
Someone remembering is the best."

All for the good of the Motherland of course. I want to go for another run and stock up on orange juice, but as the community's token white foreigner I don't want to be seen as breaking the status quo and bringing dishonour on the community. It doesn't help that my neighbour opposite has a Chinese New Year decoration on their door that looks rather like a certain dragon from Mulan. I feel like I'm being shamed in to never leaving my apartment.

Mulan Mushu GIF from Mulan GIFs

This evening, however, I was fortunate to have a friend over for dinner and drinks. The guards are thankfully still letting non-residents in to the community as long as they pass the temperature check and it was nice to have a conversation face to face rather than peering in to a phone screen. I also got to try some delicious SA gin, always a bonus! I hope there'll be a few more opportunities to meet up over the next few weeks, but I guess all depends on how strict places get with the virus continuing to spread and how badly I feel judged by my neighbours. Here's hoping they contain it soon. I'll hold off on the orange juice until I need a few more things.

As of Feb 4th:
1,394 unwatched YouTube videos on my 'to watch later' playlist.
505 unread emails.
7 unread paper books (+ 1 kindle).
5 avocados.
3 cartons of soy milk.
3 dogs and a hamster.
1 tin of baked beans.
No more chocolates.
1 cake baked - half already eaten.

Staying In Is The New Going Out

China is currently experiencing the largest quarantine in human history and it seems a lot of people have questions around daily life here in China.  Do you have to stay in all day?  How do you get food?  Can you still walk the dogs?  What happens if you get sick?

Originally, our school was due to resume classes on the 10th February after a three week break for Chinese New Year.  Given that the majority of staff members had either left the country or travelled to different parts of China, we were told to 'self quarantine' for 14 days upon our return to Beijing as mandated by the education bureau - the idea being that it can take up to 14 days for symptoms to show. As Nick and Beth had left China a week earlier than expected, flying early Sat morning, my quarantine technically started 3 days ago.  Our classes will still start on the same day, but like many other schools we will be carrying out lessons online.

I'm thankfully still able to walk the dogs, making sure my hands have a lovely coating of hand sanitiser when both leaving and reentering the building.  It's slightly surreal walking around my community, and I keep having moments when I think I've lost my hearing. Occasionally I might see one brave parent and child outside playing badminton with a mask firmly fixed to their face, or the community cleaner who is wondering what to do with himself now there's no-one outside littering.

In my home community they have closed all the entrances to the community except one, which has guards checking people's temperature coming in and out.  Delivery men, taxis and take away delivery drivers can only bring things to the gate, not enter.  If your temperature is too high they will send over a specialist ambulance to cart you away for testing and possible hospital quarantine.  You also have to wear a mask whilst out in public. Whilst many smaller shops have closed, the larger supermarkets have remained open, although many have modified their opening times for extra cleaning and disinfecting. Today I went to the hospital to have my stitches removed from my finger (note to self: no cooking when tired), and popped in to the supermarket to stock up on the way back.  I was happy to see the fresh fruit and veg was still very well stocked.  I bought all the avocados.

Whilst I understand the theory behind the quarantine, with some 200+ cases in Beijing, I have more and more questions, and very few people seem to have answers.  I had my temperature checked at least three times, and it all was ok.  Am I now back on day 1 or not?  Do I need to spend another 14 days inside incase I picked up something other than avocados today?  

As of Feb 3nd:
1,398 unwatched YouTube videos on my 'to watch later' playlist. 
510 unread emails.
7 unread paper books (+ 1 kindle).
6 avocados.3 and a quarter cartons of soy milk.
3 dogs and a hamster.
1 tin of baked beans. 
1/2 box of chocolates.  No shame.

Since there's no place to go... let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.

At 2am it started snowing.  It's already pretty quiet walking the dogs around the community, but the snowfall added an extra stillness to the atmosphere.  Following the mass hysteria of people stocking up on masks, hand sanitizer, and other cleaning products it seemed almost surreal walking around outside with no one around.  A group of snowmen on the grass seemed to be the only ones publicly socialising.  Alfie made sure he barked at them to say hello.

Thankfully this morning I was able to join with some friends from Church in an online meeting for a time of fellowship and prayer.  Given that the government has requested all large groups of people stop meeting in person, this is one of the few ways we can stay connected.  It feels good to not be so alone.

In the afternoon I decided to go for a run.  Only a day and a half of staying in and I'm already climbing the walls. My heart goes out to those at the centre of it all in Wuhan. There were a few people, all in masks, walking along the river path by my community, but everyone kept their distance.  The guard laughed at me when I returned showing all the symptoms of the virus: flushed, looking feverish, experiencing chest pains and difficulty breathing.  He kept laughing and said he should report me to the authorities. Thankfully I was allowed home once he could take a proper temperature reading.  The community was empty when I got in.

The government has already officially extended the Spring festival period until the 2nd February, so tomorrow may look a little different, but many schools will remain closed and those who are able to work from home are encouraged to do so.  So far it's looking like we won't go back until at least the 24th Feb.  

That evening, I ordered some masks from the UK for my parents to try and send to China. Shortages are a big issue here, and a Chinese friend is trying to collect a load to send to Wuhan hospitals and those in great need. The way people are supporting and encouraging each other during this difficult time is inspiring. 

As of Feb 2nd:
1,500 face masks ordered.
1,404 unwatched YouTube videos on my 'to watch later' playlist. 
515 unread emails.
7 unread paper books (+ 1 kindle).
3 and a half cartons of soy milk.
3 dogs and a hamster.
1 and a half tins of baked beans. 
1 box of chocolates found at the back of the cupboard.  Winning.

I

After the stress of trying to get Nick and Beth on an earlier flight, and several hours of delays, I was pleased to hear that they finally made it home!  After staying up half the night expecting to have to go collect them from the airport as another flight got cancelled, I had a pretty productive day 1:

• laundry
• finished binge watching the new season of Grace and Frankie
• headed to the supermarket to stock up on a few fresh items 
• cooked
• caught up on work emails
• rang friends and fam
• cleaned the apartment.

I better take it steady or I'll have nothing to do by the end of the week.

I certainly had a better day than poor Mao, who spent the majority of the day pining for Nick and Beth. Oh my heart.

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The Quarantine Files

Long time no blog. 

After what felt like a long week of wandering around Beijing trying to find places still open to show my younger brother and his girlfriend whilst they visited, and a tense couple of days trying to rebook them on an earlier flight before they got stuck, it's finally become quiet in the 'Jing.

With the city on lockdown, and no requirement to be physically in work until at least the 24th (we will work online though), my descent in to madness has officially begun.  At the encouragement of my best friend, I have decided to use my copious amount of free time to document life during the coronavirus quarantine, finally sort through the thousands of pictures I have taken since arriving in China, and reflect on the past 5 years I have spent living here.  And you lovely peeps get to see/read all about it.

What's more, in a country constantly fixating over the number of confirmed new cases, suspected cases, recoveries and, unfortunately, deaths, I thought I would start some data tracking of my own:

As of Feb 1st:
1,407 unwatched YouTube videos on my 'to watch later' playlist. 
7 unread paper books (+ 1 kindle).
4 cartons of soy milk.
3 dogs and a hamster.
2 tins of baked beans. 
1 less country in Europe, *sob*

Here goes...

Shijiazhuang: splattering of blood and chicken feet

So a week after we first arrived, Andrew and I got to spend our first day off travelling to Shijiazhuang (the capital of Hebei province) for our medicals for our residence permit. Given the demand for foreign teachers in China, the requirements for obtaining the initial entry visa to travel to China are... fairly flexible to say the least. However a clear medical check was required in order to obtain the permit which will allow us to live and work here legally as well as travel in and out of China as we wish.

Despite a 5am wake up call to take the four hour bus journey, the day ran fairly smoothly. Apparently it's one of the most polluted cities in China (yay!) but the day we were there it was exceptionally clear so even our boss accompanying us was acting like a tourist, staring out the bus window and pointing out things she hadn't noticed before!

Thankfully it was nothing like this on the day, we might have told them
to forget the medical and got on the next flight home!

Having been told in the UK that the medical exam would have cost £110, required a month and a half wait to get the test done at my local GP, a further 4 weeks to get the results and an additional two weeks on top of that to get a letter confirming there was nothing wrong, I was slightly skeptical about how the Chinese medical centre would be run and whether or not there'd be numerous 8 hour round trips to complete the exam. I'd also read numerous horror stories online whilst researching the medical exam before moving to China, from dirty needles to being asked to undress in rooms full of people. So nothing could have prepared me for how smoothly the process was. We arrived in the morning, was taken to an exceptionally clean hospital at 9am and the whole thing was completed (chest X-rays, eye and ear examinations, ECGs and a letter detailing results in both Chinese and English) by 3pm. And even better news, neither Andrew or I have HIV, tuberculosis, STDs, other infectious diseases or mental illnesses. Hurrah!

The only downside, the lack of plasters. In the UK, if they take blood they usually give you a little cotton wool ball and some tape and tell you not to remove it for at least 6 hours. You even get a plaster when they prick your finger to test your iron levels before you give blood. In China, you get a Q-tip to press on the withdrawal site. However there is no indication of how you are supposed to hold said Q-tip, pick up your huge winter coat and handbag and all the forms they've given you whilst moving to the next stand whilst a huge queue of Chinese people jostle behind you and try and practically sit on your lap to get to the counter.  The result? Splattering blood everywhere and trying to look after a very green looking Mr Jones whilst feeling a little queasy myself! It would appear the majority of Chinese people had mastered this skill though and I received many disapproving looks as the nurse attempted to clean the floor with half a dozen or so of the unused q-tips, not the most effective cleaning method I have to say!

For the rest of the day we were ferried to several other different offices to have what felt like 101 different forms stamped with our boss knowing at least one person in every office. In China it is definitely a case of not what but who you know if you want to get things done quickly, or at all. Our boss had paid someone she knew for a personal taxi to get us from place to place which, whilst it was convenient (and cheap! - £15 for a taxi to drive you wherever you want for the entire day anyone?!), it also meant we were exposed to our first Chinese car crash, although thankfully not serious. Having being rear ended by another car, the taxi driver simply got out, checked the bumper, spoke with the lady behind us and drive off having been given 100 yuan by the other driver, the equivalent of about £10. Oh how I wish it could be that simple and inexpensive in the UK!

As it drew closer to 12 noon, we started to see more and more people fast asleep in their chairs at the government offices which only meant one thing... lunch time! As it was only our second week in China, and our first time in Shijiazhuang, our boss wanted to treat us to some of the province's 'special dishes', including horrendously spicy pork soup and China's infamous chicken feet.  

Given that is supposedly an honour to be presented with the chicken's foot and the fact that I have come to China to experience different things... I went for it. Apparently you're supposed to nibble on the knuckle and suck all the meat off, although it was more of a case of what meat? There is nothing but bone and tendons here? Chinese delicacy it may be, but it's one that I think I will be honouring someone else with next time!

Here's to more delicious Chinese dishes in the future.

Ems x